Raised on sunshine, addicted to the rays

To know me is to know the color of my bedroom walls. Not the ones in my college apartment, so plastered in torn magazine covers and fading photo booth strips and stolen Home Depot paint swatches that the beige underneath is barely an afterthought. The ones in my South Florida bedroom, where I started high school and turned 18 and drafted my graduation speech in the dead of night … Read moreRaised on sunshine, addicted to the rays

The Bug

I step lightly up and down the board, speeding up, slowing down, turning, all the while distributing my weight, doing my best to understand the wave’s language.

The three of us are dancing, and I never want it to end.

The surf community calls this never-ending desire “the bug.” And once you get it, there’s no going back … Read moreThe Bug